The tiny, winding roads led us up across high ridges with majestic views, the rich green valleys sloping down to the glittering turquoise and blue water- the Atlantic Ocean to the north, the Caribbean Sea to the south. The riding was challenging, over crumbling pavement in tightly wound, narrow switchbacks, and I was reminded of certain roads in Mexico- especially el Espinazo de Diablo, "the spine of the devil", in the Sierra Madre. Other similarities to Mexican roads were the hazards of chickens, dogs, iguanas, cows, horses, ancient smoking cars and pickups, erratic driving, non-functioning brake lights and turn signals- not only unused, in the fashion of thoughtless drivers everywhere, but actually not working, their bulbs seemingly shaken to bits on the local roads. Potholes and broken shoulders were sometimes repaired with a patchwork of lumpy asphalt, and if a section of road had washed away down a cliff, they simply moved the guardrail in, greeting the oncoming rider with a sudden stretch of one-lane road. And perhaps an oncoming truck or school bus.
For all of those reasons, most of our cross-island ride was taken in first gear, creeping around blind hairpins with the ever-present possibility of... anything. In steeper country, where the road was carved into loops down a mountainside, the houses were perched at the pavement's edge. With no flat ground for a driveway, say, if a guy needed to work on his car, he simply parked it on the road and jacked it up- offering yet another surprise as we rounded a blind corner.
Far And Away Neil Peart p65