Author Topic: steering head bearing  (Read 3124 times)

Offline spanner

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steering head bearing
« on: July 16, 2015, 06:35:10 PM »
have been told my steering head bearings are shot and need to replace them.

has anyone done these?

hints

special tools required?

parts?

etc.

is this something a home handy dude can do with some tenacity?

cheers.
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Offline Gadget

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Re: steering head bearing
« Reply #1 on: July 16, 2015, 06:45:06 PM »
I've been told the same thing at every service for the last 60,000 km.

When I put the bike up on the Centre stand I can't notice any movement.

I can ride hands free as well, so I suspect it is a common 'up sell'.
Cheers,
Gary
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Offline spanner

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Re: steering head bearing
« Reply #2 on: July 16, 2015, 07:05:00 PM »
The thought had crossed my mind but this is for a safety certificate to put into Qld rego so the buggers sort of have me over a barrel

they said my steering bearings, left hand fork seal and a sticky throtle cable.  I call total bullshit on the throtle cable for sure but the head bearins could be right cause it will not track straight with no hands. 
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Offline Yorkie

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Re: steering head bearing
« Reply #3 on: July 16, 2015, 09:06:11 PM »
If you need to replace head bearings go for tapered, will never have to do them again.
Not sure whether you have 11 or 13, with both you will have to remove steering stem to replace bearings.
Brian 0418937173
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Offline alans1100

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Re: steering head bearing
« Reply #4 on: July 17, 2015, 12:26:03 AM »
How does one tell if one needs new bearings ? At a 176,000 K mine tracks true, minor vibration which I put down to a failed fork seal. Nothing appeared wrong when removing/replacing the wheel a couple days ago for the tyre change. The bike goes in Wednesday for the fork seal replacement so I'll see if they can check it for me.
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Offline Flip

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Re: steering head bearing
« Reply #5 on: July 17, 2015, 12:39:34 AM »
Replaced the steering head bearings of my '96 ex-WA Police ST1100 about 6 months after first buying it from Manheim Auctions.
The original ball race bearing felt rather rough whenever turning.   
I'd already replaced the steering head bearings before this in my Honda CBR 600 and Honda VF1000F2.

Wasn't sure what the exact sizes of either bearings where so pulled the old ball race ones out and took them to BSC Branch. Welshpool. WA. for Timkin tapered roller bearing replacements.  ( NEVER trusted those generic brand named things from China  >:() )

Now, some 10 years on, about to do a repeat of the same procedure again.

You'll find a great set of step by step instructions at ->  ST-Owners.com     :thumbsup

Just enter in the search box for -> ADJUSTMENT OF TAPERED STEERING HEAD BEARINGS.
Somewhere in the other owners Q & A just look for a link to Mike Martin's ST1100 pages.  ( Got the link from Fred D's answer of 06-20-2009 )
'Mike Martins ST1100 Page' - under - 'Chassis' - line 6 - Steering Head Bearing Replacement (Get rid of those old clunkers.) [Feb. 10, 2014]
Same - same for the tension adjustments - 'Chassis' - line 7 - Tapered Steering Head Bearing Adjustment (This is a bit of a mystery to many.) [Jul. 9, 2004]

When setting up and holding in place -> THREAD, STEERING HEAD TOP. 53220-422-000. and THREAD B, STEERING HEAD TOP. 90302-425-830. to bend the 'fingers' of  WASHER, LOCK.90506-425-830. to stop any later movement, couldn't get hold of the special Honda socket mentioned so had to find two thin C- spanners to hold both of the THREAD (nuts) in place and prevent them moving while locking things down.
THREAD B, STEERING HEAD TOP. 90302-425-830. is just a lock nut that the 'fingers' on WASHER, LOCK. 90506-425-830. bend up into.


Have fun !   o:)

Flip




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Offline spanner

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Re: steering head bearing
« Reply #6 on: July 18, 2015, 08:33:55 PM »
thanks Flip.

I am in the process now and have had a little bit of a problem with the lower bearing race not going back on.

have been given a few ideas but .....  http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=9631.new#new  its all there so far.
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Offline Flip

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Re: steering head bearing
« Reply #7 on: July 19, 2015, 01:00:51 AM »
thanks Flip.

I am in the process now and have had a little bit of a problem with the lower bearing race not going back on.

have been given a few ideas but .....  http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=9631.new#new  its all there so far.


Happy to help out.   ++

Your new lower bearing not going back into place properly ?

Before starting on the bearings, drop the forks and front wheel out - - made things a lot easier to work on.  :thumbsup

After taking the triple tree out and getting the old ball races off and out of the way, started on fitting the lower inner race - - -

Put mine in the oven for about 1/4 hour to heat it up, not too hot for the metal, just a bit too hot to hold in your un-gloved hand. About 140 - 150 C (???)

While doing that, make sure the stem and lower plate of the triple tree is completely clean and ready for the new bearing.
Scrubbed mine with a file cleaning wire bush, then wiped it down with acetone - came out nice and clean very quickly.

Have a thick pair of leather gloves handy - the type used for gardening worked OK - and a length of pipe just the right internal diameter and length to slide down over the stem all the way.
Leather gloves on, grab the now somewhat warmed inner bearing and drop it down onto the stem - take the length of pipe and keeping it nice and square - tap the top of the pipe to drive the bearing into place, nice and flat onto the bottom of the triple tree.

I used a hammer on the top of the pipe with a piece of 1/2 thick pine wood between the hammer and the pipe to absorb the sharpness of each tap of the hammer.

Once you've done that, just let everything cool down for a while (until the bearing inner is cold to touch) and that's it.

Packed both top and lower tapered roller races with grease, push it in the top and bottom of both races and squeeze as much as you can in over the rollers themselves while slowly rotating the race. That should get enough of the gears inside to do the job.
( Had a tube of CASTROL LMX grease from working on my previous bikes - seemed to work very well. )

Put everything together, replaced the front forks and wheel and slowly tightened the top nuts up until the triple tree moved smoothly without any slop.

Lowered the beast onto it's front wheel, then bounced it 3 or 4 times to make sure everything was seated in properly.

Lift the front wheel back up off the ground and lean the bike from side to side - the weight of the forks, wheel, etc. should be enough to cause it to swing in the direction you lean the bike.

Re-checked the whole thing could still move freely, then locked the top nut down with the C-spanner and bent the washer's fingers into place.

Job done.   EASY.   :runyay


Started riding bikes back in the early '60's - if you didn't have truck loads of money or couldn't fix it yourself back then - you didn't ride. (Pommies bikes, BSA - TRIUMPH - NORTON - ETC. >:() )

Flip.


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Offline spanner

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Re: steering head bearing
« Reply #8 on: July 19, 2015, 08:53:33 AM »
Awesome info.

thanks heaps

i am doing the fork seals at the same time s everything is apart. 


Cheers heaps
F.R. #905

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Offline Shiney

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Re: steering head bearing
« Reply #9 on: July 19, 2015, 06:16:45 PM »
Awesome work Flip,  thanks for sharing :thumbs

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Offline spanner

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Re: steering head bearing
« Reply #10 on: July 19, 2015, 07:40:50 PM »
thank you all for your help.

After much shimming and shamming I managed to get it all working well.
F.R. #905

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I acknowledge the Bindal and Wulgurukaba traditional custodians of this Australian land that I work, live and play on, and pay my respect to their cultures, their ancestors and to the elders, past, present and all future generations.