A little blue smoke

[Turtle]

I think my 2000 St1100 is getting on in age and it's part of the deal 120,000km bike runs fine starts stops good on fuel so what's wrong you ask........ I have had a number of people riding behind me comment your bike smells a little like its running rich no one says blue smoke just smells over fueling maybe
Yesterday at home I let it idle from cold and once warm revved up the old girl and just a hint of blue smoke nothing major then let it idle again for 2 mins and gave it another rev still same small amount of blue smoke

Do you think it's just age? New plugs new air filter new oil

Not sure when tappets checked

Settle my nerves people I have to go to Middleton SA on it 


Ben

And no it's not the bake beans 

[Brock]

Black smoke is too much fuel, blue on acceleration is a little oil in the mix. If the bike isnt using any oil to speak of, dont worry about it. Whwn was the air filter last cleamned / replac3ed, if its a bit dirty the fuel will be a bit rich.

If you keep records of fill ups, you should be able to see if your usage has increased noticably. If nothing out of the ordinary again dont worry just ride

[saaz]

Most ST11s that I know of tend to smell rich when you ride behind them. Just seems to be the way they are tuned.. Mine ran really rich in the mid range when test on a dyno, but after replacing carb bits bike goes about the same, fuel economy the same but less of the rich smell.  If fuel economy is ok and oil usage is ok, I would not worry too much.  Checking tappets when they are due, and changing air filter and plugs when due probably won't make a meaningful difference - a plug change is usually indicated when starting is a problem. But you should do the regular maintenance items sort of when they are due, but the ST11 will still go on even if you don't.  Fuel filter is the only item I should have changed earlier as it did case some running problems, but even then that was at 160,000kms plus.

Even if you just rode the bike until it stopped from shear neglect, that would be many thousands of kms - I do not recommend this though!

[Turtle]

You guys always settle my issues

Can anyone in Perth check my tappets and shim if needed at my place beer and BBQ and pool included in it and fuel money  and a carby balance


And if you want to mow the lawn too I have no issues 

[Abe]

This is what I did to my 1994 1100 with 93,000 (now 95K) on the clock and showing similar signs.  (this info was from the brains trust of this site, thanks to Brock and Saaz)

New spark plugs
New air filter
Replaced all 4 carby insulators and clamps (they join carb's to the motor) both offside insulators clamps not secured (light back firing under de-acceleration) and all insulators were hard and light cracks.
Checked all Pilot screws for correct setting (7/8 turn out)
Checked all jets are maufacturers spec's (all good)
Adjusted float level (was high)
Cleaned 8  ant's, yes ant's out of number 4 bowl
Checked all diaphragms for holes (nil found)
Carb Sync (bought Synchrometer of ebay)
Nulon carby cleaner in fresh tank of fuel and ride


Test ride:-
515 kilometres traveled
26 litres used
19.8 Km/L
5.05 L/100Km
All spark plugs are clean and correct colour.

She now can pull the skin off custard.

I hope this helps.  And thanks to all that assisted me.

Cheers
Dave
Only 8 sleeps till presents (not counting)

[Turtle]

Thanks Dave for your detailed response I don't seem to get back fires maybe I will look for ants lol

[saaz]

I am doing my tappets and synch in the next few days, just come on over to Canberra.  The ST11 can survive little maintenance, but after a while things add up to cause issues.

[Abe]

Saaz and all,

Given the issue above,  should the shims be done hot or cold engine (every 26K)  OR before or after timing belt (145K) ???  just asking because Rebecan and I might be doing our machines at the same time, or is this another thread.

Cheers
Dave

[saaz]

Dave, shims should always be checked on a cold engine (ie left overnight), but I must say I have never tried to see if there is actually a difference, apart from the upper section of the engine being too hot to touch.  Once you have done them once, the interval can be stretched a bit to fit in with your riding schedule or when you are scheduling other maintenance.  Planning to do the tappets at the timing belt change saves the effort of removing bodywork twice.