OEM 12 volt DC socket

[alans1100]

These arrived yesterday and still waiting on an adapter for the phone mount.

I also need to get a 32mm hole saw if I mount it in the RH compartment as per instructions.

OEM 12 volt DC socket

20180911_171318 by Alan, on Flickr

Looking the quartet harness it's obvious where it goes; red on red. Looking at the wiring diagram I have it's powered from the ignition switch.

20180911_171613 by Alan, on Flickr

I can source the GPS power from the harness as well but would need to find the half of the connector. I have a ride to the city soon so I can check Jaycar out and see what they have to fit. Looking that the black plug for this one as it has both switched and non switched sources

20180911_171451 by Alan, on Flickr

20180911_171429 by Alan Williams, on Flickr

[Brock]

I can make a one to two y piece if you want, I have the plugs in the cupboard some where.

[alans1100]

I can make a one to two y piece if you want, I have the plugs in the cupboard some where.

That could work out ok quite well. I would still need the other half of the plug for the TomTom wiring.

The DC power socket has it's own supplied 2 amp fuse and the TomTom power cradle has it's own fuse as well. Putting both on the same switched circuit works ok for me. As can be seen in the harness diagram the red plug is powered through the ignition or accessories via the key.

Quartet Harness Diagram by Alan, on Flickr

[Ace]

Hi Alan,
After a 6 month trip around oz in oyr 4wd and tvan camper, we are now two weeks from home. Keen to get back to the bikes and do some mods. Where did you source this plug setup from? Also, just confirming it's for an 1100!
Cheers
Chris

[alans1100]

I got mine from here https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/2005/st1300-a-st1300/accessories

The 1100 also has similar OEM products (or did have) to fit optional heated grips and DC power socket though may not be available anymore.

Brock might be able to help making up a harness to suit the 1100 - I think it plugs in near the fuse block. Looking at the wiring diagram for the 1100 the accessory plug in shows two wires (green and fused yellow/blue)

[Biggles]

Thanks for putting up this post Alan.  That's the first time I've seen a quartet harness.
That makes me keen to get one for my next ST13.  It will have much better wiring than my previous bikes, based on the experience I've gained.  If I wasn't so bone lazy I would redo the current bike's wiring.   
But I console myself with the well worn adage, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it".   

[alans1100]

Good as place as any to put this since all the work will be related to installing the 12 volt socket.

The 1300 has been in the garage at Tammie's (Heather's daughter) place since the end of October waiting for me to make a start at stripping some of the plastic off.

All the parts are over there plus oil and coolant as I decided to both those tasks as well. Just waiting on new seal washers to come before I drop the coolant.

We had a brief visit with Tammie this afternoon so I took the tool box with me and left it there. I had a few minutes waiting for Heather so I made a start and took the screen off. It was also a chance to test the camera function on my new Samsung S8+ phone.
 
20181117_171845 by Alan, on Flickr

Took a look at the screen mounts and discovered that the screen was mounted in the low position. I moved the mount to the higher position so when the screen is in place I can adjust the air flow to go over my helmet.

20181117_171718 by Alan, on Flickr

20181117_171656 by Alan Williams, on Flickr

[alans1100]

Day Two

Beginning to find annoying little things.

At the moment I am unable to remove the RH side panel. I'm not sure what the bike shop used to tighten up the rear retaining bolt and it has just enough damage so that the Allen key just come out. Will have to order that one and the LH side is ok.

Only need to remove this panel to disconnect the battery but it looks like I can get to the negative terminal when I need to do that.

20181118_174233 by Alan, on Flickr

The top panel bolt location on both side covers have been over tightened causing a small crack

20181118_174241 by Alan, on Flickr

This one I knew about with a missing bolt on the front of the RH panel. Sometime in the past the thread has been stripped and needs to be repaired.

20181118_174331 by Alan, on Flickr

LH Side panel removed. No need to remove this one as it was just a look to see what's on this side.

20181118_174355 by Alan, on Flickr

Both the wing covers removed and the bolts loosened ready for the day when I hope to get the front fairing panels off. The LH one needs to be remover to access the wiring for the quartet harness and the RH one comes off to access the front of the fairing pocket so a hole can be made to locate the DC socket.

20181118_183240 by Alan, on Flickr

Just for peace of mind while I am working I removed both indicator and mirror covers. Good time to remove some unneeded spider webs.

20181118_183353 by Alan, on Flickr

[Gadget]

Hi Alan,

My same RH one was similarly burred and I resorted to using a Dremel cutting wheel to make a large flat tip screw out of it to remove it.

Unfortunately, that led to cutting into the plastic and I never got around to repairing the plastic.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[alans1100]

I was waiting for a call from the local dealer to let me know if the seal washers for the 1300 had arrived but it seems they have either gone missing or haven't arrived yet. I suppose the old ones are ok but I'd prefer to put new ones in after draining the coolant from the block; so this will have to wait a bit longer.

I ordered two of the previously mentioned damaged bolt plus two that secure the front of the side cover and a couple of those plastic clip/rivet things to replace some that have gone missing.

Next time we go to Port Augusta I can get the bike in to fix those two items; remove bolt and insert a helical for a stripped thread

[alans1100]

Back into he bike today after a few days of coolish weather and rainfall.

No need to get into the fairing removal items as I think that's been covered which was the main task today.

In order to install the OEM DC socket one needs install the quartet harness which needs the LH fairing removed and the socket itself is installed in the RH fairing pocket which I will get to later as I'm still waiting on a 32mm hole saw; from China and cheap and I only need to work once.

Quartet harness plugged into the bike's system. There's a spare white 9 pin plug for this; bottom connection in image. Once it's connected then just replace the plastic cover as it was before.

20181125_153538 by Alan, on Flickr

Following the supplied instructions the harness is then routed along the frame/wiring and secured with one of the four supplied zip tie about 110mm from the terminals.

20181125_154724 by Alan, on Flickr

Finally zip tie the rest of the cable

20181125_154712 by Alan, on Flickr

All finished and ready to put the LH side back together but it can wait until I do a coolant and oil change.

20181125_154746 by Alan, on Flickr

I had some time to do the oil change today and after warming the motor I found that the sump plug wouldn't move. Need more leverage so it'll be a torque wrench job.

[Brock]

Allan,
dont use a torque wrench to undo the sump plug, its not designed for that job. You may need to fit a length of tube over the ratchet handle for more grunt.

[alans1100]

Allan,
dont use a torque wrench to undo the sump plug, its not designed for that job. You may need to fit a length of tube over the ratchet handle for more grunt.

It's ok Brock; it was more about getting more leverage.

I have dad's Sidchrome socket set (he no longer needs) at which is much better my cheap set.

[alans1100]

Back into the bike today with a successful oil and filter change done. Not sure when it was done last time but with the bike off the road it seemed a good time @ 77,600 km.

Next part of the DC socket install was done with the removal of the RH fairing pocket for making a 32mm hole.

A slight mishap with the hole saw caused a small chip of plastic to break off but not enough to effect the mounting of the socket. Some waterproof sealant will fix that up. It's only hand tight at the moment but it won't need much to prevent any vibrations from loosening it up.

20181202_161047 by Alan, on Flickr

Small hole where the plastic chip broke off can be seen upper RH side of the socket

20181202_161108 by Alan, on Flickr

To thread the wiring to the quarter harness the meter panel gauges are supposed to come out but even though the whole lot is loose with clips and bolts removed I am unable to remove it.

I thought I might have missed something so I put the job on hold so I could check the workshop manual PDF on my PC. Only item/s mentioned were the 20P and 16P connecters. All I can see is one connector which even if still connected wouldn't prevent the gauges from being removed.

Heather noticed this piece of rubber in the next image. It has something to do with the wiring below it so can anyone can shed some light as to how it goes?

20181202_154320 by Alan, on Flickr
 

[Biggles]

It's been ages since I had the plastic off that location.  As I recall, the hole in the rubber sheet lines up with one of the attachment bolts and prevents chafing of the wiring against the cowl.

[alans1100]

Went back to the bike today and it's still a no go on getting the gauges out. For some unknown reason it won't lift up even though I can move the gauges about 1/2 inch back and forth. Not to matter as I managed to thread the DC socket and TomTom wiring through to the quartet harness and just need to connect and secure it in place when ready.

[alans1100]

I was waiting for a call from the local dealer to let me know if the seal washers for the 1300 had arrived but it seems they have either gone missing or haven't arrived yet. I suppose the old ones are ok but I'd prefer to put new ones in after draining the coolant from the block; so this will have to wait a bit longer.

I ordered two of the previously mentioned damaged bolt plus two that secure the front of the side cover and a couple of those plastic clip/rivet things to replace some that have gone missing.

Went over to Port Augusta last Thursday and picked up the parts they had. Still waiting for one non urgent bolt on back order but when I got home I found the seal washers missing from the order so no go on the coolant change; yet.

[alans1100]

Connected the DC socket wiring up yesterday and tested it with my 12 volt phone charger.

Still need to organise the GPS power cradle and test the circuit by plugging it into the installed TomTom wiring.

20181216_134138 by Alan, on Flickr

[alans1100]

Assembled the GPS power cradle and connected it to the wiring. Turned the ignition on and GPS starts up as expected; turn the key off and the go to sleep warning comes up. Works on both IGN and ACC positions. So that's all done.

GPS Tryout by Alan, on Flickr

[Shiney]

Great work mate, congratulations on a successful test 

[alans1100]

A little more work on the 1300 today and not much more I can really do until the back ordered/missing parts come in from Honda.

It was the Misgel mount turn today which I added to a previous topic. http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=12930.msg1247941#msg1247941

No need to do any wiring for the phone though it would be nice to have powered mount sometime in the future.

[StinkyPete]

Farkling can be fun, particularly when everything works as it should, and looks good.    Well done Alan and I look forward to seeing the final result. 

[alans1100]

Started putting the plastics back on the 1300 this afternoon. Lining up the LH fairing is a pain compared to the 1100. Managed to get it on and bolted up and then noticed it wasn't sitting correctly under the headlight which I fixed. Also need to order a few missing clips and bolts which I hadn't noticed during the strip down.

Main hold up was waiting on parts for the coolant change over which I decided to do while all the plastic was off.

should get the rest done tomorrow.

[alans1100]

Just spent 30 minutes changing the DC socket fuse. I forgot that is was only a 2 amp when I went to use the compressor for the tyre air pressure. Put in a 15 amp fuse since I found one laying around and it should be ok until I can get a 10 amp to replace it.

[Biggles]

Nah, here's the fix: